The Ultimate Guide to Burnishing Your New Trailer Brakes

Congratulations on your new trailer! Before you load up for your first big trip, there is one critical maintenance step you must perform: Burnishing (or "Seating") the Brakes. A lot of users just say breaking in your brakes. This will be something you want to be familiar with as you will do it any time you buy a new trailer or replaces old braking hardware like shoes or drums.

When brake shoes are new they are egg shaped. Your brake drums Also have microscopic imperfections. "Burnishing" is the process of wearing these parts together so they fit like a puzzle piece.

If you skip this step: Your brakes may feel weak, grab unevenly, or wear out prematurely.

 IMPORTANT: You must perform this procedure immediately.

• Brand New Trailers: This should be done within the first 200 miles of operation—ideally as soon as you leave the lot.
• New Brake Parts: If you have just replaced brake shoes, drums, or magnets on an older trailer, you must repeat this process completely.
• Do NOT Wait: Delaying this process or towing a heavy load immediately without burnishing can glaze the linings, permanently reducing stopping power.

 Safety First

• • Read All Instructions before attempting the procedure. 
  • Empty Trailer: Perform this with the trailer empty.
  • Safe Location: Do NOT attempt this in a parking lot. You need a long, flat, dry stretch of paved road with very low traffic, such as a frontage road or a rural secondary road. Avoid dirt roads. They will have less traction and your brakes may “lock-up” early.
  • Manual Override: You will be using the manual lever on your brake controller, NOT your truck’s brake pedal. If you don't have a manual override, your truck does not have trailer brakes!!!

• User judgment required: every setup is different. Adjust the procedure accordingly!

The Universal Procedure

This method is the official recommended procedure for both Dexter and Lippert axles. It is the safest way to ensure warranty compliance.

Step 1: Set your brake controller gain (sensitivity) to a highest setting (usually slightly below the point where the wheels lock up).

Step 2: Accelerate your vehicle to approximately 40 MPH.

Step 3: Use the Manual Override Lever on your brake controller to apply the trailer brakes.

• Apply enough force to slow the vehicle down to 20 MPH.
• DO NOT use your truck’s foot brake (unless it's an emergency). You want the trailer stopping the truck, not the truck stopping the trailer.

Step 4: Once you hit 20 MPH, release the lever and accelerate back up to speed.

• IMPORTANT: Drive for roughly 1 mile (or about 60-90 seconds) without using the brakes before your next stop.
• Why? If you heat the brakes too fast without letting them cool, the brake linings will "glaze",  ruining their stopping power.

Step 5: Repeat steps 2–4 approximately 20 to 50 times.

• Dexter recommends: 20-30 stops.
• Lippert recommends: 20-50 stops.
• Realistically go until the brakes grab or stop correctly. You may need to do more or less than the recommended stops. If you feel no change at all, bring the trailer back as soon as possible. The brakes might not be set close enough for the adjustment process.

Does Axle Size Matter?

Yes! It can change the “feel” of the break in process. The actual process itself however does not.

Generally speaking lighter duty trailers with 3.5K or 5.2K axles have smaller brakes and tires but can also have less weight proportional to the tow vehicle. If your tow vehicle is significantly heavier it will be easier to lock up the brakes due to this disparity. If you're in something like a F-250 or 350 expect a light tug. It will be easier to lock up your brakes and skid your tires.

With the same trucks towing a trailer with 7K or 8K axles expect a much firmer grab and a quicker seating as the trailer typically weighs more and the tires have more traction to the road. If the brakes are  properly seated you can even feel the truck start lurching to a stop. You can still drag your tires if you're not careful.

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Manufacturer-Specific Details

While the procedure above works for both, here are the specific details for the axles on your trailer:

If you have DEXTER Axles:

• Strict Warning: Do NOT use the "highway drag" method (driving at highway speeds while dragging the brakes). Dexter warns this can damage components. Stick to the stop-and-go method above.
• The "200-Mile" Rule: Dexter advises that brakes may not be fully seated until after the first 200 miles of driving.
• Re-Adjustment: If your trailer has manual-adjust brakes (not self-adjusting), Dexter recommends having the brake clearance re-adjusted after the first 200 miles, as the burnishing process will wear down the shoe slightly, creating a gap.

If you have LIPPERT (LCI) Axles:

• Temperature Check: Lippert notes that properly burnished brakes should reach a temperature of 350°F – 400°F.
• Visual Check: It is normal to smell hot brakes or even see a small amount of wispy smoke coming from the hubs during this process. This indicates the resin in the brake lining is curing properly.

FAQ & Troubleshooting

Q: My brakes locked up (skidded) during the process: Turn your brake controller gain down slightly. You want maximum braking force without wheel lockup.

Q: I don't have time to do 50 stops right now. A: Do as many as you safely can. Even 10-15 stops are better than none. Just be aware that your braking power will improve naturally over the next few hundred miles. Drive conservatively until then.

Q: What is "Glazing"? A: If you get the brakes too hot too fast (by not letting them cool between stops), the material hardens and becomes shiny/smooth. Glazed brakes will squeal loudly and have very poor stopping power. This usually requires sanding the pads or replacing them to fix.

Q: My brakes already grab/stop really well: brake components come pre-seated by the factory and its usually done by hand. You should attempt to burnish them at a lower gain setting on your brake control to avoid locking up your tires.