Quick Summary:
Difficulty: Moderate (Very Messy).
Time Required: 1–2 hours per axle.
Critical Warning: You must replace the grease seal and the cotter pin every time. Never reuse them.
The Goal: Clean grease, inspected metal, and the perfect spindle nut tension.
We recently saw a video circulating of a trailer wheel detaching on the highway and actually passing the truck that was towing it. While it might look funny on TikTok, it is a terrified driver’s worst nightmare.
"We can laugh at this video, but the reality is scary. When you see a wheel pass a truck on the highway like this, it’s usually not because of a flat tire—it’s because the spindle nut wasn't installed correctly. This is why a proper repack isn't just about grease; it's about the cotter pin and the torque sequence."
That failure usually happens for one of two reasons: either the bearings seized up from lack of grease, or the spindle nut backed off because it wasn't secured properly.
If you are handy and don't mind getting covered in grease, you can do this yourself. Here is how to repack your bearings the right way (so your wheel stays where it belongs).
What You Will Need
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High-temp wheel bearing grease (Red or Tacky is best).
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New Grease Seals (Double lip seals are preferred).
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New Cotter Pins (Do not reuse the old rusty ones).
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Solvent or Brake Cleaner.
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A lot of rags or paper towels.
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Jack and Jack Stands.
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Hammer and a block of wood (or a seal driver).
Step 1: Safety & Disassembly
First, "break" the lug nuts loose while the trailer is still on the ground.
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Important: Do not unscrew them completely or loosen them significantly. You just want to overcome the initial resistance (about half a turn) while the ground holds the tire still. The studs still need to support the weight of the trailer to prevent damaging the threads.
Next, jack up the trailer by the frame (never the axle tube!) and secure it with jack stands. Once the tire is off the ground, finish removing the lug nuts and pull the wheel off.
Remove the dust cap (the metal cap in the center). You will see a large nut held in place by a cotter pin or a metal "tang" washer. Straighten the pin, pull it out, and remove the nut.
Tip: Be ready to catch the outer bearing—it will often slide out as you pull the hub off the spindle.
Step 2: The Clean Out (The Messy Part)
This is where most DIYers cheat, but you can't. You need to remove all the old grease to inspect the metal properly.
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Pop the rear seal out of the back of the hub (a screwdriver works, but be careful not to scratch the hub).
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Remove the inner bearing.
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Use solvent or brake cleaner and rags to wipe the hub, the bearings, and the spindle completely clean. It should be dry, shiny metal when you are done.
Critical Warning: Never use water or water-based cleaners on bearings. Even a tiny amount of moisture trapped in the grease can ruin the bearing.
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If you have to stop: If you need to step away for lunch or overnight, cover the exposed spindles and hubs immediately (a plastic bag and a rubber band work well). If it rains on a bare spindle, it can flash-rust in minutes, ruining the surface.
Step 3: Inspection (The Expert Part)
Once clean, look closely at the "races" (the smooth silver rings pressed inside the hub) and the rollers on the bearings.
The Rule of Thumb: If the metal isn't perfect, it's trash.
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Silver/Shiny: Good to go.
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Blue/Black: Overheated. Replace immediately.
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Pitting/Scratches: Even the smallest nick, scratch, or pit will destroy the bearing under load. Do not assume grease will "fill it in."
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Cage Damage: If the metal cage holding the rollers looks bent or tweaked even slightly, the bearing will fail.
When in doubt, swap it out. A bearing kit is cheap compared to the cost of a roadside breakdown. If you aren't 100% sure the metal looks perfect, buy a replacement kit. Do not put fresh grease on a bad part.
Step 4: Packing the Bearings
You need to force grease between the rollers, not just coat the outside.
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Method: Put a glob of grease in your palm. Press the bearing into the grease repeatedly until fresh grease squeezes out the top of the rollers.
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The Hub: Put a heavy layer of grease inside the hub cavity itself.
Step 5: The New Seal
Drop the inner packed bearing into the back of the hub. Now, take your NEW grease seal and set it squarely over the hole.
Critical Rule: Grease seals are one-time use only.
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Once you tap a seal in, it is seated. You cannot pull it back out without bending or destroying it.
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If you install the seal and realize you forgot to put the bearing in first (it happens!), you must throw that seal away and buy a new one. Never try to reuse a seal you have already installed or removed.
Installation:
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Do not hit it directly with a hammer. You will dent the metal shell.
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Use a block of wood or a seal driver to tap it in until it is flush with the hub casing.
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Note: If you damage, dent, or deform this seal during installation, grease will leak directly onto your brake shoes.
Step 6: Reassembly & Torque Specs
Slide the hub back onto the spindle. Insert the outer bearing, the washer, and the spindle nut.
Consult Your Manual: This is the most critical step. You must consult the specific Owner's Manual for your axle manufacturer (Dexter, Lippert, Rockwell, etc.) to get the exact torque and adjustment procedure.
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Why it matters: The procedure often varies depending on if you have a 3,500 lb, 7,000 lb, or 8,000 lb axle.
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Common Procedure (Example Only): Most standard axles require you to tighten the nut to a specific torque (often 50 ft-lbs) to seat the bearing while spinning the hub, back the nut off entirely, and then re-tighten it "finger tight" or to a very low spec so the wheel spins freely but has no play.
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Do not guess: If the nut is too tight, the bearing will burn up in miles. If it is too loose, the hub will wobble and destroy the spindle.
The Lock: Once the nut is set to the manufacturer's spec, verify the hole in the spindle aligns with the slots in the nut (or the retainer cage). Insert a NEW cotter pin and bend the legs around the nut. This $0.50 pin is the only thing keeping your wheel attached to the trailer.
"That sounds like a lot of work."
It is. It is one of the messiest jobs in trailer maintenance, and the stakes are high.
If you have the tools and the time, it’s a great Saturday project. But if you’d rather keep your driveway clean and have peace of mind knowing the tension is perfect, we do this every day.
Need service or parts? Service@jayhawktrailers.com
need more information? reach me at Cale@jayhawktrailers.com